The first: to make such a different kind of pizza like that, conventionally considered to be heavy and indigestible. The second: to give common thought to the public, in the non-sectoral public and therefore not informed, for which the Neapolitan pizza could only be made in Naples. It is thus throwing reflected light also on the many small realities scattered throughout Italy that produce an excellent product far from Naples. Yes, today, there is more awareness.
Perhaps we do not realize it, but we are talking about a real revolution. Because today the Neapolitan pizza – the real one, not the vaunted one – is on everyone’s lips, but until a few years ago the idea that a term could be defined outside Naples for many bordered on the absurd. Today, however, we take it for granted that, wherever we go, there must be at least one place where we can eat a decent Neapolitan pizza. So I wonder: given the evolution, we have witnessed in such a short time, will we see another city following in the same footsteps as Milan?
The short answer is yes because it is already happening in different places. So it would be more correct to ask: what is the city, outside of Campania, that is preparing to become the next nerve center of Neapolitan pizza production? And here we would have to look around a little because the dynamics are different depending on the location.
A good candidate could be Rome, which sounds a bit like a paradox, considering that the Romans have always been the number one enemies of that “indigestible brick” which is the Neapolitan pizza. And yet, little by little, something is also penetrating those parts. Demonstrations such as La Città Della Pizza are proof of this. And it is no coincidence that strong brands such as Michele, Rossopomodoro, and DiMatteo are already present in the capital (and Sorbillo was also rumored, but did he open more?).
In Rome, the experimentation certainly took place in a sly manner at the hands of a myriad sparse of premises that probably neither I nor you know. Because, if for a place like La Gatta Mangiona – which for over twenty years has been proposing a successful hybrid of Neapolitan and Roman – there is a lot of talks, there will surely be many other similar small restaurants known perhaps only to the people of their own neighborhood. But the media attention of the last few years has brought to the forenames like Daniele Seu and Marco Quintili. Flashes of revolution begin to be felt even in the capital.
On the Milan model, instead, we could perhaps look at three other cities, which seem to proceed slowly but steadily. The first is Bologna, where they constantly report me a series of good pizzerias, even if with alternate judgments. The second is Turin, which I’ve been keeping an eye on for a while and which seems to be making interesting promises. Even here, a big man from Naples, Starita, has already had a hand in it. The third, to a lesser extent, is Florence, which in the past has already boasted such names as Marco Manzi and Giovanni Santarpia (but which, in fact, depends very much on the presence or absence of talented pizza chefs).
Italy is vast; there are many good pizzaiolos and many unknown locals. Unfortunately, I have not had the chance to explore all these realities in-depth (or at least not in person), and I rely more on references and on what I can read around. So I pass the ball to you: according to you, what are, or will be, the Italian cities where you will eat more Neapolitan pizza in the near future?